Originally published in Sunset magazine, March 2012, Utah day trip department. By Jeremy Pugh, photographs by Paul Richer.
Why go now: Because the home of Brigham Young University is shaking things up with a new attitude.
Where is it? About 45 minutes south of Salt Lake City, along the snowcapped Wasatch Front and the base of Mt. Timpanogos.
The old rep: A squeaky-clean town of ice cream parlors and fresh-faced students. Nice, but dull.
But wait a sec: Well-traveled 20- and 30-something urbanites are working to bring art, style, and local food to Utah’s “second city” while having fun with the straitlaced Mormon rep. Suddenly, square is the new cool.
Hipster in Provo? Yes, but here young square hipsters (squaresters?) come with a wholesome sheen.
What to expect: Walkable Main Street U.S.A. blocks lined with brick buildings, mom-and-pops, and a club and restaurant scene developing before your eyes.
Yeah. But where’s it at? The intersection of Center Street and University Avenue.
1. Where the tunes are
With its Victorian steampunk vibe and killer acoustics, Velour Live Music Gallery is the heart of Provo’s music scene and a stopover for bands as they pass through Salt Lake before heading to Denver, Vegas, or L.A. You can find all ages here, and (like much of Provo) the venue is dry, so it’s no Studio 54. But it is where bands like the chart-climbing Neon Trees get their start. Closed Sun; cover from $6; 135 N. University Ave.; 801/818-2263.
2. The local Louvre
A trip to the BYU Museum of Art is like visiting some of the best museums around the globe in a single outing, with heavyweight artists from Rembrandt to Maynard Dixon to Dorothea Lange to Andy Warhol. Look for exhibits on the art of Islamic cultures—with works from 10 countries and 40 museums worldwide—and prints by James McNeill Whistler. Closed Sun; moa.byu.edu
3. The buzz hub
In any other town, Juice ‘n’ Java would be your average spot for sullen students to sip barista-crafted beverages. But given the caffeine-free BYU campus, it’s like an oasis to a desert wanderer, where indulgers and abstainers alike sip coffee or fresh juice. 280 West 100 North; 801/375-5409.
4. The pioneer
In a sea of chains, Communal is a heroic example of the locavore movement planting its feet here. After stints in New York and San Francisco, chef Colton Soelberg returned home to enlighten the Provo palate. Strangers mingle at the shared table over local Berkshire pork and wine from the best list in town. Closed Sun; 102 N. University Ave.; 801/373-8000.
5. Yes. We said “mocktail”
There is no better example of Provo’s new wave fighting for their right not to party than Spark. This stylish black-walled restaurant is known for its artisanal mocktails—lovingly crafted mixes of, well, mixers (think zero-proof mango mojitos and stripped kiwi martinis)—and food that’s a tasty mashup of Asian fusion and classics with a twist. Closed Sun; 86 N. University Ave.
3 More Adventures Nearby
The must-see falls and must-do drive: Spring is the best time to see the cascade of Utah’s most reliable waterfall, Bridal Veil Falls, as it tumbles from the mountains into the Provo River. Head up the canyon about 4 miles on U.S. 189 for a well-trafficked viewing area. Once you spy the falls, keep going and turn onto State 92, past Robert Redford’s Sundance Resort and onto one of the most picturesque drives in northern Utah: the Alpine Scenic Loop. fs.usda.gov/uwcnf
Treat yourself to a treatment: The Spa at Sundance Resort offers a sage-tinged wrap and mud rubdown (with mud from the Great Salt Lake) called the Sage & Sweet Grass Ritual ($170). Whatever it is, you have never been exfoliated like this. Expect to leave feeling relaxed and revived. sundanceresort.com
A good reason to come back: A visit to Timpanogos Cave National Monument is a rite of passage for Utah schoolkids. But don’t let them have all the fun. Ranger-led tours ($7) leave throughout the day and include a hike to the cave, where inside is a labyrinth of well-preserved crystals, stalactites, and stalagmites. Mid-May through mid-Oct; $6/vehicle; nps.gov/tica
Getting to Provo
The town is 45 miles south of Salt Lake City, off I-15.