Jeremy Pugh

Jeremy Pugh

Literary Sawbones • Editorial Necromancer • Words Bought, Sold

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From the Whale to the Witch: Shop, Dine, Drink and Nosh Your Way Along the Nine Line

We get it. You haven’t been north of 33rd South in a while (or maybe not even that far). Understandably. It’s reasonable to assume the construction will never end and to stay clear of the hard-hat-required zones. But apart from poor Sugar House, there seems to be a lull in the jackhammers—an eye of the storm before whatever comes next for the Salt Palace starts up—and for now, at least, the results of all those torn-up roads, one-lane diversions and orange cones are coming into focus.

Behold the Nine Line.

The Nine Line passes through old warehouses turned cafés, neighborhood bars with bike racks out front, public art, indie retail and some of the city’s most walkable and bikeable pockets stitched together by a protected east–west bike-ped corridor. It’s nice because pedestrians and faster wheeled vehicles have separate lanes, which keeps strolling walkers out of the way of speedier travelers. The line starts in the east at 9th & 9th below the Whale and continues through Central Ninth and all the way out to the Jordan River Trail. The “meat” of the path is between 1100 East and 400 West, where the trail passes The Water Witch and runs through 9th & 9th, Central Ninth and the rapidly changing Granary District edge.

1100 East to 500 East: 9th & 9th → Liberty Wells

This stretch is the most residential and walkable part of the route, defined by independent retail, cafés, neighborhood institutions and, of course, Liberty Park.

Coffee + Casual Stops (East to West): Hip & Humble (1043 E. 900 South) — a polished lifestyle shop focused on candles, bath goods and understated home décor. Cahoots Cards & Gifts (878 E. 900 South) — a bright, LGBTQ+ forward gift shop packed with clever cards and ribald humor. The Stockist (875 E. 900 South) — a trend-importing boutique blending home goods, apparel, books and objects d’art. Salt & Honey Market (926 E. 900 South) — a collective retail space showcasing Utah makers, artists and small-batch goods. Loki Coffee (325 E. 900 South) — the “it” coffee shop of the moment, patio always packed. Randy’s Records (157 E. 900 South) — the most important vinyl shop in the region, stuck in time in the best way. Normal Ice Cream (169 E. 900 South) — a playful ice cream shop known for inventive, seasonal flavors. Expect a line.

Recommended Food + Drinks (East to West): Pago (878 S. 900 East) — one of the first-wave Utah restaurants to truly walk its talk on local sourcing. East Liberty Tap House (850 E. 900 South) — a casual beer-forward gastropub with a wide tap list. Tulie Bakery (863 E. 700 South) — a French-inspired bakery known for croissants, tarts and one of the best pastry programs in the city.

500 East to 400 West: Central Ninth → Granary Edge

This is where the Nine Line becomes more urban and industrial: breweries, murals, adaptive reuse buildings and denser food and drink options.

Coffee + Casual Stops (East to West): Goat Head (702 S. 300 East) — a café-bistro hybrid serving strong coffee alongside full brunch and lunch plates. Blue Copper Coffee Room (179 W. 900 South) — one of Salt Lake’s respected specialty coffee operations, minimalist and bike-friendly.

Restaurants (East to West): Mina Ristorante Siciliano (439 E. 900 South) — a Sicilian-focused offshoot of Mateo’s Ristorante Italiano known for handmade pasta. Bar Nohm (165 E. 900 South) — a see-and-be-seen Japanese-inspired restaurant crafted by the cocktail wizards at Water Witch. Laziz Kitchen (912 S. Jefferson St.) — Lebanese-inspired cuisine with one of the best patios in Central Ninth. Central 9th Market (161 W. 900 S.) — a hybrid neighborhood market, wine shop and sandwich counter.

Beer + Cocktails (East to West): Water Witch (163 W. 900 South) — this James Beard-nominated cocktail bar still retains the cocktail crown in SLC. Fisher Brewing Co. (320 W. 800 South) — a tap room rooted in Salt Lake’s brewing history, strong on lagers and easy-drinking styles. TF Brewing (936 S. 300 West) — emphatic followers of the German Beer Purity Law, making some of the best beer in town.

Additional Browsing: Capital City Antique Mall (959 S. West Temple) — a sprawling antique warehouse filled with vintage furniture, Western Americana and collectibles.

Editor’s Picks (from Whale to Witch)

Hip & Humble → Salt & Honey → Cahoots → Pago → The Stockist → Coffee Garden → Loki Coffee → Randy’s Records → Normal Ice Cream → Goat Head → Water Witch → Laziz Kitchen → Blue Copper Coffee Room → TF Brewing → Fisher Brewing

Originally Published in Salt Lake Metropolitan, A City Journals Publication.

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