Originally published in Ski Utah magazine (2016–17 edition), the Utah ski industry association’s annual visitor guide. By Jeremy Pugh.
Skiing or riding at the largest resort in the United States, with its whopping 7,300 skiable acres, can be daunting. But if you’re the type who likes to take the bull by the horns and bite off more than you can chew while eating the whole elephant, here is your guide to riding Park City from west to east, rope to rope, edge to edge with all the best food, drink and fun in between.
But First, the Big (Very Big) Picture
Park City is divided into two sides that are connected by the Quicksilver gondola and, there are three main starting areas: Canyons Base Village, the Park City Base and the Town lift. Because of the resort’s vastness, where you start or finish is an important consideration. All are connected by the free Park City town buses and Park City Resort’s shuttle system so you’re never stuck even if you end up, say, on Main Street at the Town lift in your ski boots and your car back at Canyons Village. And on this tour, which will take you all day, that’s exactly what we have planned for you.
And away we go. Start this ride at 9 a.m. at Canyons Village. Park at the base and take the Cabriolet buckets up to the village. From here you’ll head to the Orange Bubble.
1st Chair: Orange Bubble Express
Now, technically you haven’t quite reached the extreme right side (skier’s left side) of Park City at the top of this lift, but you can start your trek from here if you like. But that’s not truly rope-to-rope is it? And if you just go to base camp you haven’t climbed Everest, have you? Besides Park City’s extreme right side is awesome, especially early in the day so… from here, ski down Eclipse past Sun Peak Express (take a lap here if you wish) to the bottom of Super Condor Express.
2nd Chair: Super Condor Express
Now you are at the westernmost boundary of Park City. Western rope. Check. You can actually ski the boundary and ride down to Lower Boa all the way back to Canyons Village from here (return via the Red Pine gondola) or try your hand at the double blacks off of the peak. You can also access the hike up Murdock Peak from Upper Boa, and Apex Ridge is one of the speediest blues on the mountain, but we’re getting sidetracked here. We recommend a cruise down Easy Street back to the base of Sun Peak Express.
3rd Chair: Sun Peak Express
From the top you’re headed to Red Pine Lodge area. Once there, you might want to take a quick lap on Saddleback Express because you shall not pass this way again. Otherwise head down to Chicane to the base of Tombstone Express.
4th Chair: Tombstone Express
Now we are really cooking. From the top of Tombstone you’ll cut over to the Peak Five/Ninety-Nine 90 area. And you have a choice, experts will want to take a lap on Ninety-Nine 90 Express (home of some of Park City’s best black-diamond terrain). Others can skip ahead to the Peak Five lift.
5th Chair: Peak Five
As tempting as it is to return back down to the Peak Five lift base, you must resist. We’re on a mission here, rope to rope, remember? Take Harmony, a nice blue cruiser, down to the Day Break/DreamScape lift area. Ride DreamCatcher to the top and…
Lunch break. You have arrived at one of the best restaurants anywhere, Cloud Dine. Everything is good, really good, but we highly recommend the salad niçoise (yes, ahi at 8,000 feet) and for dessert, fresh made doughnuts. You’re on vacation, remember? Head back down to the base of DreamCatcher and pass the lift via Cascade to Iron Mountain Express.
6th Chair: Iron Mountain Express
This area is formerly one of the best kept secrets on the mountain. The new Quicksilver gondola is making it more a popular spot. Your destination, the gondola station, lies down the back side via Chrome Alley, but take a lap on the frontside of Iron Mountain. Heavy Metal is a great intro to black runs for intermediate skiers.
Shortcut: You know those shortcuts you see when you are stuck wandering through IKEA? Well if you want to, you can cut out a whole chunk here by skipping the fourth and fifth chairs and take the Timberline Express to Iron Mountain lift to the Quicksilver Gondola Station. But really, why? You are not at IKEA stuck sifting through Grönkulas, Dagstorps, Flårdfulls and Bjurstas, are you?
7th Chair: Quicksilver Gondola
Be sure to bust out the camera phone for this stunning ride over Pinecone Ridge. Relax and kick back for this eight-minute ride. Take a pit stop at Miners Camp lodge for water, snacks and other necessities and head back out. You are halfway there. Yes. You read that right. Now you’re thinking you should have taken that shortcut, right? From here you can ski down to the King Con Express and grab a lap or head up Silverlode Express.
8th Chair: Silverlode Express
Gorgeous cruisers like Prospector and Assessment make it tempting to linger here and take a lap (or two). Otherwise ease on down the road to the base of the Pioneer-McConkeys lift area.
9th Chair: Pioneer
This is an old-style lift that will take a minute but you’ll access some of PC’s best blue and black terrain down to McConkey’s Express.
10th Chair: McConkey’s Express
Views into neighboring Deer Valley greet you atop this lift. If it’s not skied out, Sundog is a steep and beautiful way down. Ski past McConkey’s to Bonanza and head back up to the summit.
Pit stop: Pause before you hit the Silver Queen run and step into the Viking Yurt for a German beer or glühwein and bask in the sun on the Adirondack chairs outside on the snow. Do not, however, let this sap your will. You still have more ahead.
11th Chair: Bonanza
Back up at the top of Park City’s left side it’s time to gear up for the final runs of the day. You’ll be taking the top portion of HomeRun to Silver Queen, a sharp double blue. You can also just stay on HomeRun, a nice, easy green. Either way, make sure you stay high and follow the cat track to the PayDay run. Skip across the actual PayDay run (looking uphill, safety first) to the town run signs. We like Quittin’ Time for your final blast into town. Hit the bridge, dump your skis and you’re on Main Street. Park City’s eastern rope. Walk down to High West for a whiskey. You’ve earned it.
Pro tip: Shuttle a car to a pay garage at the Town lift. After your day, ditch the gear and close out the afternoon on Park City’s famous Main Street.
—Jeremy Pugh
Park City by the Numbers
Average snowfall: 365 inches. Vertical: 3,200 feet. Lift-served acres: 7,300. Number of runs: 300+.